McManis Syrah 2005

My dear fellow wine drinkers, my condolences to all of you two, three and six buck Chuck afficionados out there who have yet to discover the meaning of a really good affordable bottle. Here it is. This is the one, the crowd pleaser for 2005.

McManis Syrah is almost certainly the best bottle of affordable red wine made in California, bar none. It even outshines their wonderful Petite Sirah, at least in the 2005 vintage. A booming nose of blackberries, black cherries and vanilla, followed by opulent berries, spice, vanilla and mocha in the mouth. A nice balance of acidity and sugars with succulent fruit. Medium dark ruby in the glass with modest glycerine (legs). Smooth tannins and moderate oak with good structure (could be aged a few years). Really, really satisfying, and at $10 this wine is simply unstoppable.

Really.

So stop wasting time with all the others. Realize that there is something better out there, and for not much more than you were paying for that rotgut Yellowtail or that dillwater Napa River. After you've tried McManis, you'll never go back.

Cheers!

Tarragon Cream Chicken

After years of experimentation, I finally came up with a dish that uses that most challenging herb of all, tarragon. The taste of tarragon falls somewhere between basil, mint, and citrus, making it a perfect match for—chicken? I prefer fresh tarragon, since its flavor is a little more subtle. The problem with tarragon is that it is a very singular taste that becomes cloying if not balanced out by other flavors. The following recipe is approximate. It is not a recipe for a novice cook. You will need to finesse the sauce to get it right, since cream has a tendency to absorb certain flavors and augment others. Be careful not to burn your garlic or scald your half & half.

Tarragon Cream Chicken

2 pounds chicken apple sausage (or shredded chicken)
2 pounds asparagus (about two grocery bundles)
6-8 cups noodles (wheat or rice to match roux)
1 pint half & half (don’t hold back)
1c prepared rice or wheat flour roux (to thicken the sauce)
2-3t lime pepper or equivalent (Spice Barn is perfect)
1t ground nutmeg
1/2t turmeric (for color; provides minimal flavor)
1c finely minced fresh tarragon
5 cloves crushed garlic (fresh, not powder or salted)
2T unsalted butter
salt to taste
water to thin sauce if needed

t = teaspoon
T = tablespoon
c = cup

Grill or sauté the sausage then cut it into thin slices. You can also remove it from its casing, crumble and fry it chili style. Make sure it is thoroughly cooked and set it aside.

Pre-cook your asparagus and julienne. Grilled is best. Set it aside.

In a large sauce pan or skillet, melt butter on low heat until just melted. Add crushed garlic and spices, including tarragon. Whisk a little to mix and activate spices. Wait until butter begins to bubble, then add the half and half. Bring to steaming hot, whisking occasionally to prevent scalding. Heat should still be fairly low. Begin to add flour roux. Cook sauce slowly over moderate heat, whisking constantly, adding more roux until desired thickness is reached. The sauce should be about as thick as barbecue sauce. Taste for salt, and adjust if needed. Add more lime pepper if desired. Add sausage and asparagus. Stir and coat all ingredients. Heat until hot but not boiling, then remove from flame. Pour over noodles.

I served this with a salad of spring mix, apples, cranberry goat cheese, candied pecans and apple vinaigrette.

This meal would go nicely with a good white wine. Zaca Mesa’s outstanding Roussanne was my choice, but any great Pinot Grigio (Girgich Hills comes to mind) or Sauvignon Blanc (Kim Crawford) would work fine. Try to find something with good acidity, citrus notes and not much residual sugar.

A decent beer to have with this dish would be Stella Artois.

Enjoy!