Ever since the stunning McManis Petite Sirah 2004, I’ve come to look forward to the next vintage of red wines by this modest California winery. So, when they announced their 2006 vintage, including a brand new award-winning Pinot Noir, I became excited about the possibility of another great vintage. The 2005 vintage was all-around decent, though not as great as the previous one (with the possible exception of the 2005 Syrah). For this review I’ll give my impressions of the 2006 Cabernet, the 2006 Petite Sirah, and the new 2006 Pinot Noir (the 2006 Syrah will have to wait).
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon by McManis Family Vineyards is bright ruby red in the glass with fairly modest extraction for this varietal. The nose is expressive with red currants and floral notes accompanied by cedar and asphalt. In the mouth the wine is sappy and slightly watery with good acidity and a slightly fake fruity quality. Berries and red currants predominate, with a hind of tangerine and light vanilla. Very modest tannin and alcohol. A simple, flavorful wine, but not nearly as good as the prior two vintages. I’ve come to expect more from McManis and I’m unimpressed with this wine, although it is still quite enjoyable, and still better than f*cking Yellowtail. I won't buy it again.
My score: 82
The 2006 Pinot Noir (!) by McManis Family Vineyards is medium garnet in the glass with fairly decent extraction. The nose is very expressive, almost explosive, with penetrating blueberry and spicey black cherry notes. In the mouth the wine is very fruity and sappy, bordering on overdone, with hints of cherry cola, black cherries and cranberry-orange marmalade. Tannin is non-existent and the finish, while short, is wrapped around a core of creamy, oaky vanilla. Low alcohol and decent acidity save this wine from its fruity-ass self. A simple, flavorful wine that flirts with becoming a gagger. I think they can do better, but this one ain’t bad, if you like koolaid. I won't buy it again.
My score: 83
The 2006 Petite Sirah by McManis Family Vineyards is dark purple in the glass with good extraction. The nose is fairly closed at this point, revealing dark berry fruit and some floral notes, along with just a hint of bacon. In the mouth the wine is modestly tannic with a lovely loamy-blueberry aspect on the midpalate. Very nice, medium-bodied fruit, not overdone, with light vanilla on the finish. Better than the 2005, but not quite like the 2004. Perhaps this one will evolve, and if it does I expect it to be quite wonderful, maybe in about six months.
My score: 85
Overall I’d say that the 2006 vintage must have been a hot one. They probably over-watered their vines in order to deal with the heat, resulting in sweet, generic-tasting fruit with little structure or concentration. The only good thing is that sometimes (as in the case of the Pinot) you get wonderful, hedonistic flavors like cherry cola or citrus mixed in with the usual berry notes. The downside is that you also get a lot of fake-tasting, sappy qualities and a certain hollow aspect to the midpalate. An earlier harvest might have prevented some of this, but McManis isn’t in the business of restraining their wines, and this time they got themselves into trouble.
The Petite Sirah is a bit of a mystery. I can only assume that it is still a little closed. It also seems to be the best of the three, perhaps due to harvesting variations or the peculiarities of the varietal. I will buy more of this in a few months to see where it is going. I expect good things once it opens up and settles in.
Better luck next year, McManis.
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